I'll be funny next time, I promise. You see, my goal here (as a writer) is to let Woo Pig Brewey do all of the journalistic heavy lifting and I'll make jokes. Basically, I'll be your clown. I'm down with that and we'll get there, I promise. But not this time. I can't be funny this time. There is too much at stake.
The craft beer
industry in Arkansas is young and impressionable and in the next few
years it can go a few chaotically different ways. See, in a way, the
craft beer movement in Arkansas is in a fight for its soul. I know, I
know, that sounds dramatic. But it isn't. Not if you love it. Many of us
are invested in this, financially, emotionally, or otherwise. It is in
its infancy and we get to decide which direction it goes from here.
We're
in a battle against the big boys, who are on one hand trying to dip
their toes into the craft beer market (sometimes admirably, Goose
Island, sometimes ridiculously, I'm looking at you Shock Top) and on the
other hand they are trying to cripple craft beer movements by
instructing their beer reps to try and take craft handles
<coughMillerLitecough>. They can't have it both ways. Regardless,
today this is not a battle that overly concerns me. Look at the numbers.
We are winning. No, our biggest battle comes from within: beer geeks vs
beer snobs, localists vs enthusiasts, big beer versus better beer, and
money versus culture.
I've
pontificated at length about beer snobs, but indulge me once more. What
will be a common theme here is inclusion vs exclusion. Beer is
throughout history, the drink of the everyman. Princes drink wine,
plebes drink beer. Elitism is not and should never be our game. The wine
industry is riddled with snooty wine snobs and it ruined it for the
rest of us. So, beer snobs, put your monocle away and stop trying to
hijack beer culture in this state. We should and really, we have to
include everyone that wants to be involved. We have to lift ourselves
and everyone around us up and never exclude people that we view, for
whatever reason, as less. Educate not subjugate. You want to know how to
deal with a Coors drinker? Offer them something from your stash, don't
ridicule them and write them off. Beer snobs are a major bane on our
rapidly growing movement. They may very well be the worst (they're the
worst) but they aren't the only ones.
There
is a growing (and in many ways noble) movement across all aspects of
society. It is the locavore movement, specific to our purposes here, the
"Drink Local" movement. To which I say, "Nah". I'm not being flippant,
I'm being honest. I'm a hippie at heart, don't get me wrong. I support
local food and local businesses whenever I can. I get it, I do. But to
what end? Should Boulevard and New Belgium be punished even after they
showed us love before anyone else was interested in us? Should Sierra
Nevada be pushed to the side simply because we finally caught up with
the rest of America and shit out a few new breweries? What about all of
those breweries that were here before there was even a twitch of what we
could become? Should we make choices based on locality or should we
make those choices because the beer is just better? Our local breweries
should accept the challenge to be better, to rise up to the standards of
their regional and national and international brothers and sisters.
These are all talented and capable people. Why should we ever give them
any excuse to rest on their laurels? Whether spawned by the well-meaning
locavores or the jingoistic that believe that you should drink their
beer simply because it is from Arkansas, this is an argument worth
having and it will persist. I just believe we should help breweries rise
up, support them, but until they are the best beer in my stash, I'll be
drinking whatever I damn well please.
The
last battle I want to discuss is the one I think is potentially the
most poisonous and the most long term problematic, because there is an
inherent disconnect between the history of beer culture and modern
business. At least fundamentally, all of us want to be able to make
money in this industry. Competition is a wonderful thing. But aside from
our beer business Voldemorts, this competition has long been friendly
and supportive. Collaborations have always been the norm. The original
craft beer gurus were outcasts and ne'er-do-wells (Spoiler alert: We
still are). There was a common kinship in getting to make a living doing
what we all love to do, talking about, brewing, and drinking great
beer. We have to stick together, we can't get caught up in the business
side of things and start suing one another, start throwing up legal
roadblocks against new breweries. It is counterproductive. All we have
is each other to lean on and learn from. The craft beer business as we
know it was built brick by brick by friends, some providing the base,
others the mortar, others the stones themselves. And, yes, as any
industry grows so does the competitive head-butting. But we should never
forget where we came from. Not only do we not have to play that game,
but we have a responsibility to make ourselves and everyone else around
us better, to lift each other up, to collaborate and grow together. You
can dig that, right? Beer should always be inclusionary and never,
never, never exclusionary. Same as it ever was.
I'll be funny next time...promise.
The Beericist
The Beericist
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